Allium tricoccum, better known as ramps in these parts, are
officially in vogue. Though native to the Eastern seaboard, the oniony little
vegetables are getting attention as far away as San Francisco and Seattle.
Chefs are introducing them in creative cuisine, finding ways to serve these
newly trendy delicacies in fine restaurants.
Bo Taylor, archivist at The Museum of the Cherokee Indian
and longtime ramp lover, isn’t as interested in gourmet ramps as he is in
cooking up a “mess of them” and enjoying them with friends and family. Heralded
as the first spring vegetable, gathering and cooking them is an Appalachian
tradition. And according to Taylor, ramps aren’t just good eating, they’re a
healthful spring tonic, one that cleanses the blood and chases away colds and
flu.
The season for ramps begins as early as mid March and
continues into May, depending on the weather. For Taylor, the earlier the ramp
is dug, the better. He prefers to rake the frost off his patch (a location he
keeps secret) and look for the “whites,” the bulb or onion-looking part of the
ramp that Taylor considers the true delicacy. He insists, though, that ramps
aren’t to be dug up completely. “You need to cut the ramp bulb, leaving a
slight part of it attached to the roots for next year’s growth.”
As for the smell, according to Taylor and John Stehling,
owner and chef at Asheville’s Early Girl Eatery, ramps are like onions, or
garlic; they have the unfortunate aftereffect of making you, well, odorous. So,
it’s probably best to follow the advice of Taylor and Stehling on this: If
you’re going to eat ramps, just enjoy and accept the short-lasting
consequences.
With that in mind, here’s a recipe from Stehling, which is
occasionally served as a daily special at Early Girl.
Ramp Cornbread Stuffing
1/2 Tbs. butter
1 cup celery, diced
1 cup green peppers, diced
2 cups ramps, diced
1 Tbs. garlic, minced
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
5 cups crumbled cornbread
3 eggs
2 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup parsley, finely chopped
Preheat oven to 450°F. In a pan, sauté butter, celery,
peppers, ramps, and garlic until tender. Season vegetables with salt and
pepper, and remove pan from heat. Mix in the remaining ingredients, and place
in a greased baking pan. Cook for 45 minutes, or until liquid is gone. Serve
with pork or turkey.
